Home / Hotel & Bett / Winterliche Auszeit in Deutschnofen: Rituale, Rauch und sehr viel Ruhe

Winterliche Auszeit in Deutschnofen: Rituale, Rauch und sehr viel Ruhe

Winterliches Stilleben bei Deutschnofen; Foto: Naturhotel Pfösl

Mystisch blitzen die Schneekristalle in der Mittagssonne. Monströs, und wie zum Greifen nahe thronen hinter Weidezäunen und verschneiten Wäldern die Gipfel von Rosengarten und Latemar. Auch der Schlern grüßt aus der Ferne. Sacht führt von Deutschnofen hinauf zu St. Helena der Wanderweg, der dieses Naturerlebnis möglich macht. Auf einem kleinen Hügel, in malerischer Lage liegt das kleine Kirchlein aus dem 12.Jahrhundert. Ein Kraftplatz, den sich die Bauern hier einst nicht von ungefähr ausgesucht hatten.

Hier steht die Zeit still – das Kirchlein St. Helena bei Deutschnofen, Foto: Heiner Sieger/SchönesSüdtirol.de

Drinnen verbirgt sich sogar eines der Meisterwerke der Bozener Malerschule aus dem 15. Jahrhundert. Viele der wunderbaren Wandmalereien sind noch bestens erhalten, vor allem in der Apsis und in den Gewölben. Bekannt ist St.Helena auch, weil sie die älteste Glocke der ganzen Region besitzt.

Und, so heißt es in alten Überlieferungen, die Kirche stehe auf silbernen Stufen. Vermutlich weil sich in der Umgebung früher Bergwerkstollen befanden. Denn der Name von Deutschnofen hat seinen Ursprung im Mittelalter, als Hessen und Schwaben aufgrund ihres Bergbaues hier oben das Erz im „deutschen Ofen“ schmolzen. Die Kirche ist in der Regel täglich geöffnet. Falls nicht, der Schlüssel wird im unmittelbar nebenan gelegenen Kreuzhof der Familie Zelger aufbewahrt. In der Jausenstation des ehrwürdigen Erbhofs wird der Gast mit bäuerlicher Kost bewirtet. Besonders empfehlenswert: hausgemachte Kniaküchl mit Preiselbeermarmelade. Wer an diesem ruhigen Ort rastet und innehält, erfährt willkürlich das Gefühl, die Zeit sei stehen geblieben.

Zaungäste am Wegesrand: hübsche Haflinger; Foto: Heiner Sieger/SchönesSüdtirol.de

Auf dem Sonnenplateau von Deutschnofen
Gut 20 Minuten Autofahrt von Bozen, oberhalb des Eggentals, am Regglberg liegt die bäuerlich geprägte Gemeinde Deutschnofen. Mehr als 250 Bauernhöfe gibt es hier oben noch, von denen aber immer mehr aufgeben müssen. Zum Glück pflegen viele in Südtirol noch eine eigene Form der Kreislaufwirtschaft. Wie etwa Markus Thurner, Chefkoch des Naturhotels Pfösl auf dem Sonnenplateau von Deutschnofen. Für die anspruchsvolle Küche des Viersterne-Hotels kauft der 41-Jährige überwiegend regional ein, bei mehr als drei Dutzend Höfen.

„Die Bauern sind für mich mindestens so wichtig wie die Gäste. Wir haben dieselben Ziele – den Erhalt der Heimat. Das ist – wie die Alten schon sagten – ein Kreis. Wenn ich nicht den Bauern helfe, wer soll es dann tun?“ Regelmäßig rufen ihn die Bauern an, wenn ein Tier geschlachtet wird. „Mittlerweile wissen die Bauern was ich will“, sagt er. Erst kürzlich hat er zum Beispiel ein Milchkalb von 160 Kilo Lebendgewicht gekauft. Beim Rindfleisch nimmt er nur Grauvieh – „für mich die beste Rasse, von der Fleischqualität her, egal ob auf Niedrigtemperatur oder kurz gebraten, als Schmorbraten – das ist immer perfekt.“ Aber er kauft auch Kaninchen, und Schafe, wie die vom Moserhof gleich die Ecke rum. „Das ist ein eigene Kreuzung vom Tiroler Bergschaf und einem französischen Il-de-France-Schaf. Das hat besonders ergiebige Keulen und Fleischteile“, erzählt er mit einem Gesichtsausdruck, wie sie bei so einem Thema wohl nur ein Koch aufsetzen kann.

Markus Thurner, Chefkoch im Naturhotel Pfösl, kocht am liebsten mit einheimischen Produkten; Foto: Naturhotel Pfösl/Andergassen

Der kreative Kopf ist im benachbarten Sarntal aufgewachsen. „Da herrscht noch eine andere Mentalität. Da muss man noch richtig etwas arbeiten. Und bei uns ist die Tradition sehr, sehr gut erhalten geblieben.“ Deshalb pflegt er auch den persönlichen Kontakt zu den heimischen Jägern, die ihm ihre besten Stücke antragen. Erst im vergangenen November hat er acht Hirsche gekauft. Daraus zaubert er dann kulinarische Kunststückchen wie ein Hirschpfeffer mit Vollkornpolenta, Keniabohnen, Preiselbeeren und eingelegtem Trüffel oder oder einen rosa gebratenen kalten Hirschrücken auf Blaukraut mit schwarzen Nüssen und Hagebutten-Mus. Für seine Speisen greift er gerne die Anregungen aus alten Rezepten auf, die er aber selber kreativ neu gestaltet.

Kochen mit heimichen Produkten
Seine Laufbahn begann im Marklhof, einem Zwei-Hauben-Restaurant in Girlan. Stilistisch beeinflusst haben ihn unter anderem Andreas Oberhofer, einer der damals besten Köche Südtirols, und Hermann Mayr, der Besitzer des Restaurants Finsterwirt in Brixen. Als Höhepunkt seiner Laufbahn bezeichnet er seine Lehrzeit im Au Crocodile in Straßburg, das damals drei Michelin-Sterne trug.

„Ich möchte möglichst Produkte einkaufen, die nicht so lange Wege machen“, lautet seine Einkaufsphilosophie. Deshalb stammt auch die Käseauswahl zum abendlichen Menü ausschließlich von den regionalen Bergbauern, wie dem Becherhof. Und die Frühstückseier stammen vom Badstuberhof in Deutschofen, wo die Bauersleute Astrid und Luis Thaler ihre freilaufenden Hühner nur mit Gras und gentechnikfreiem Getreide aufziehen. Auch für Obst, Gemüse und Früchte setzt er auf Partner aus dem Bozner Umland. „Ein Bauer zieht Himbeeren, ein anderer Erdbeeren und ein dritter Kirschen. Es gibt dann vielleicht nicht immer alle Früchte, aber dafür heimische“, lächelt er stolz. Den knackigen Winterportulak etwa kauft er bei der kleinen, spezialisierten Gärtnerei Floriamo in Bozen.

Mit der Zeit hat Markus Thurner auch eine Leidenschaft für das Backen entwickelt. „Ein Brot, das ich mit Sauerteig selber mache, hält mir eine Woche. Wenn ich es beim Bäcker kaufe mit den Fertigteigen, ist es mir am nächsten Tag hart.“ Ein Mann der Tat: Die Kräuter von Alant bis Verbene zieht er alle selber. Und selbst exotische Früchte wie etwa die Calamansis, eine eigentlich in China und auf den Philippinen heimische hybride Zitrusfrucht aus Manadarine und Kumquat züchtet er im eigenen Garten daheim. Die kredenzt er den Hotelgästen abends als erfrischendes Sorbet – mit oder ohne Sekt.

Das Naturhotel Pfösl liegt wie ein „Almschiff“ auf dem Regglberg bei Deutschnofen vor Anker; Foto: Naturhotel Pfösl

Mit seiner Philosophie passt Markus Thurner bestens in das von bäuerlichen Wurzeln geprägte Naturhotel Pfösl. Der wuchtige Bau mit seiner dunklen Balkenoptik greift trotz der heutigen Dimension noch seine Herkunft als Bauernhof aus dem 16. Jahrhundert auf. Die rundum erneuerte Fassade besteht aus dicken dunklen Holzbalken. Den alpinen Eindruck verstärkt zudem der alte denkmalgeschützte Stadel des alten Bauernhofs, der als Kraftort behutsam in das 2017 neu gestaltete Bauensemble eingebettet wurde. „Meine Schwester Eva hat die neue Architektur auch schon mal als eine Art Almschiff bezeichnet, das hier in Deutschnofen gestrandet ist“, lacht Brigitte Zelger, die das Haus gemeinsam mit Eva und deren Mann Daniel führt.

Kraftspendender Blick auf den Latemar von Deutschnofen aus; Foto: Naturhotel Pfösl

Kerniger Holzduft in den Hotelzimmern
„Natürlich, authentisch, ehrlich“ – nach dieser Leitlinie präsentiert sich das Naturhotel in all’ seinen Facetten – nicht nur in der Küche sondern auch von der Architektur bis zum Wellnessbereich. So zeigen der Empfang mit der Rezeption, aber auch die Hotelbar, das Panoramarestaurant und die Kamin-Lounge geradliniges, alpines Design. Die insgesamt 62 Zimmer und Suiten des Hotel Pfösl sind mit Böden und Möbeln aus heimischen Hölzern eingerichtet. Die naturbelassenen Materialien schaffen mit ihrer Optik und dem kernigen Holz-Duft eine spezielle Wohlfühlatmosphäre. Durch die großen Fensterfronten wachsen die umgebenden Wiesen, Wälder und Dolomitengipfel geradezu in den Raum hinein. Besonders erholsamen Schlaf schenken dem Gast die vielen großzügigen Natur- und Zirbensuiten. Die Zirbe beruhigt ja Puls und Gemüt gleichermaßen.

Wenn es im Hotel bereits frühmorgens riecht, wie einem Bauernhaus, liegt das auch an einem traditionellen Ritual, das Brigitte Zelger hier pflegt: Jeden Morgen wird das Haus „geräuchert“. Auf einer Steinplatte aus Silberquarzit zündet sie auf einem Stückchen Kohle selbst gezogene Räucherkräuter wie Salbei, Alant, Melisse, Verbene, Minze, Kamille und Ringelblume an. „Das reinigt die Räumlichkeiten, und wir machen das täglich, um auch die Gäste mit frischen Gerüchen zu verwöhnen“, sagt sie. Das alte heidnische Ritual wurde in Südtirol von jeher gepflegt, um die Häuser vor Unheil zu schützen. Auch heute werden die Bauernhäuser hier noch am 24.und 31. Dezember sowie am 5. Januar, dem Vorabend des Dreikönigstags geräuchert. Der Silberquarz ist übrigens ein ganz besonderes Gestein, das weltweit einzigartig in einem Steinbruch im Südtiroler Pfitschtal gewonnen wird. Die Einheimischen sagen, es habe magische Kräfte.

Die Düfte der heimischen Kräuter entfalten ihre wohltuende Wirkung aber auch im 2000 Quadratmeter großen Wellnessbereich, zu dem ein Sole-Melisse-Dampfbad, ein Quendeldampfbad, eine Bio-Lavendelsauna, eine Almkräutersauna, eine Latschenkiefersauna und eine Heumeditationssauna gehören. Auch für die Anwendungen im Spa sind die verwendeten Salben Cremes und Öle bewusst aus Kräutern die man auch draußen vor der Hoteltüre findet: Rosmarin, Thymian, Latsche, Ringelblume, Kamille.

In der neuen Outdoor-Sauna „das Ritual“ wird die rituelle Ruhe geradezu zelebriert. Etwa wenn Spa-Mitarbeiterin Andrea zu Beginn Kräuter auf dem Silberquarzit anzündet und im Laufe der Aufguss-Sitzung dezent Schalmein-Glöckchen oder Klangschalen anschlägt. „Saunieren ist für uns ein gesundheitlicher Genuss – entschlacken, reinigen, loslassen, – das sollen die Gäste auch in einer ruhigen Art erfahren“, sagt die Hotelchefin. Nach dem Saunieren ist es ein erhebendes Erlebnis, im neuen 25 Meter langen Infinity-Sole-Pool in Richtung Dolomiten raus zu schwimmen.

„Gran Classico“ anstatt Campari
Wie ehrlich es die Hotelführung mit ihrer Philosophie nimmt, zeigt auch die Begegnung mit Alexander Morgenstern, dem Chef hinter der Hotelbar. Der Gründer und Präsident von Barcode, der Internationalen Bartender Academy, setzt die „Natürlichkeit“ nicht nur bei den Drinks konsequent um. „Wir haben ja alles naturgeprägt hier, daher gibt es auch keinen chemischen Campari oder Aperol-Sprizz. Ich muss die Produkte finden, die einen angemessen Ersatz bieten“, erzählt der Spirituosen- und Cocktail-Historiker.

So setzt er für den klassischen italienischen Sprizz auf den Bitterlikör Mondino von einem Familienbetrieb aus Venedig, ein Aperitivo Select mit Farbe von Rhabarber und Roter Beete. Auch Campari schenkt er nicht aus. Stattdessen kredenzt er einen „Gran Classico“, Originalrezept von 1864. „Der ist zwar deutlich teurer als Campari mit seinen giftigen und gesundheitsschädlichen Inhaltsstoffen, dafür aber wirklich ein ehrlicher Kräuterbitter“, sagt er. „Man darf den Herstellern nicht glauben, was sie aufs Etikett schrieben. Das ist in Italien natürlich sehr schwierig. Aber auch wenn es heißt, ‚natürliche Aromen’ kann sich dahinter viel mehr Ungesundes verbergen wie naturidentische Aromastoffe.“

Cocktailprofi Alexander mixt seine Drinks nur mit „gesunden“ Spirituosen; Foto: Heiner Sieger/SchönesSüdtirol.de

Und fast schon logisch: Die Strohhalme in den Cocktails sind nicht aus Plastik, sondern tatsächlich aus Stroh. „Wir servieren hier alles nur mit den Halmen, die bis 1950 verwendet wurden. Die sind aus einem speziellen, desinfiziertem und zertifizierten Stroh, da kostet einer 30 Cent. Aber das ist die Gesundheit unserer Gäste wert.“

Lohnende Winterwanderziele
Um die kümmert man sich im Hotel Pfösl auch tagsüber. Geführte Schneeschuh- und Winterwanderungen entführen den Gast fast jeden Tag in die abwechslungsreiche Winterwelt der Dolomiten. Wer sportlicher unterwegs sein will, den bringt ein Hotel-eigener Shuttle in zehn Minuten Fahrt ins benachbarte Ski Center Obereggen, eines der besten Skigebiete Südtirols. Skilangläufer können direkt vor der Hoteltüre in die Langlaufloipe einsteigen. Winterwanderer finden in der Umgebung von Deutschnofen als lohnende Ziele nicht nur kleine Kirchlein wie St.Helena.

Auch Papst Johannes Paul II. war schon hier: der weltberühmte Wallfahrtsort Maria Weissenstein; Foto: Heiner Sieger/SchönesSüdtirol.de

Ausdauernde Spaziergänger oder bequeme Autofahrer sollten auf jeden Fall den rund zehn Kilometer entfernten, weltberühmten Wallfahrtsort Maria Weißenstein mit seiner imposanten Kirche ansteuern. Sein Ursprung geht zurück in das Jahr 1553, als die Jungfrau Maria dem Leonhard Weißensteiner erschien und diesen heilte. Der Überlieferung zufolge soll die Jungfrau ihn aufgefordert haben, als Zeichen des Dankes eine Kapelle zu errichten, die sich sofort zu einem vielbesuchten Wallfahrtsort entwickelte.

Die heutige Basilika im pompösen Barockstil, birgt die von Leonhard gebaute Kapelle in sich und wurde 1654 vollendet. Im Inneren bewahrt sie zahlreiche Sehenswürdigkeiten von kunsthistorischer Bedeutung, beispielsweise das Gnadenbild der Mater Dolorosa. Imposant sind auch der mit Silber und Blattgold überzogene Hochaltar sowie die herrlichen Gewölbefresken, ein Werk von Joseph Adam Ritter von Mölk, einem berühmten österreichischer Fresken- und Tafelmaler. Schon der Zugang zur Basilika hat es in sich: Hier hängen Tausende ergreifende Votivbilder von Gläubigen, die die Mutter Gottes um Hilfe anrufen oder für eine erbetene Heilung danken. Von der Kirche aus findet man auch in die Kapelle des Peregrinus Laziosi, Heiliger und Schutzpatron der Krebskranken. Hier, in der absoluten Ruhe, tut ein Gebet der Seele gut.

Einladung zur Andacht in Maria Weissenstein; Foto: Heiner Sieger/SchönesSüdtirol.de

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