Gewaltig liegt er da, der schlafende Riese. Majestätisch hingestreckt, dominiert der zackige Gebirgszug des Haunold die Region mit seiner Wucht und zieht den Urlauber mit seiner Dominanz unmittelbar in den Bann. Egal ob bei strahlend blauem Himmel oder wolkenumkränzt etwa nach einem Gewitter – seine archaische Kraft verströmt der Berg von früh bis spät. Er ist die prägende Erscheinung im Südtiroler Hochpustertal, dass sich von Toblach bis Innichen erstreckt. Es ist die Heimat der berühmten Sextener Dolomiten, mit ihrem typischen Kontrast von sanft geschwungenen Berghängen und schroffen Gipfeln.
Genau diese Kombination macht das Tal so anziehend. Die Berge sind markant in ihren Formationen: 2.966 Meter ragen der höchste Gipfel der zackigen Haunoldgruppe, und drum herum Dreischusterspitze und Helm in den Himmel. Geprägt ist die Landschaft in dieser Region von zwei dominanten Farben: Dem Weißgrau des Dolomitenfelses und dem Grün der Wiesen und Wälder – das bei schönem Wetter erfrischend Mit dem Sessellift geht’s bequem zur Risemit dem Blau des Himmels kontrastiert.
Innichen – das älteste Dorf Tirols
Unterhalb des Haunold ist das älteste Dorf Tirols angesiedelt, das 2019 seine 1250 Jahr-Feier beging. Der Grenzort Innichen, der seine Gründung dem bischöflichen Auftrag zum Bau eines Benediktinerstiftes im Jahr 769 verdankt, gilt heute als einer der beliebtesten Urlaubsorte im Hochpustertal. Der Sage nach soll Haunold den Bürgern einst bei der Erichtung des Stifts höchstpersönlich geholfen haben.
Im Sommer stehen hier vor allem Wandern und Klettern sowie Radfahren am Drauradweg und Mountainbiken im Vordergrund. Bei Familien besonders beliebt ist der grenzüberschreitende Radweg von Innichen nach Lienz im benachbarten Österreich und in die andere Richtung nach Bruneck. Im Winter ist der Skiberg Haunold in Betrieb, der auch über eine Rodelbahn verfügt. In der Fraktion Vierschach und Sexten befinden sich Anlagen der Skiberge Helm-Rotwand. Sie gehören, wie der Skiberg Haunold, zum Skigebiet „3 Zinnen“, das mit 115 Pistenkilometern zu den größeren Skiregionen Südtirols zählt. Außerdem ist es Teil des weltweit größten Skikarussells Dolomiti Superski. Innichen ist auch an das Loipennetz des Hochpustertales angeschlossen, das mehr als 200 präparierte Loipen umfasst.

Alpin – mediterranes Flair prägt den Südtiroler Grenzort Innichen; Foto: schönessüdtirol.de/Heiner Sieger
Nach der Öffnung der Grenzen und der Entspannung der Lockdown-Maßnahmen in Deutschland. Österreich und Italien habe ich mir diese Ecke für einen Erholungsurlaub in Gottes schöner Natur ausgewählt, die hier besonders attraktiv ist. Außerdem ist hier die Heimat eines außergewöhnlichen Naturhotels, das mir Freunde schon vor dem Corona-Ausbruch empfohlen hatten.
Der Leitlhof, so heißt das Hotel, hat seinen Namen von dem Tiroler Wort „Leitl“, was soviel bedeutet wie „steiler Hang“. An so einem Steilhang residiert das Hotel eingebettet zwischen Wald und Bergen: Im Wald hinter dem Haus wachsen dicht gedrängt Fichten und Lärchen, Tannen, Kiefern und Zirben. Und es liegt dem schlafenden Riesen direkt gegenüber, weshalb es früher auch Panorama-Hotel hieß.
Beim Betreten ist es der feine Duft nach Zirbe, der sofort die Nase kitzelt. Schon nach den ersten Schritten ins Hotel hinein nimmt er mich gefangen – als dezenter Willkommensgruß, der sich vom Eingangsbereich bis mein Zimmer zieht. Dort angekommen, wird endgültig klar: Die Natur spielt in diesem Haus, das ein wenig aussieht wie ein überdimensionaler Südtiroler Bauernhof, innen wie außen eine essenzielle Rolle.
Hygiene und Sicherheit haben Vorrang
In Zeiten von Corona ist der Weg zum Hotelzimmer indes gespickt mit Hygienestationen: An der Rezeption, im Aufzug, vor den Zimmern – überall ist es den Gästen im Naturhotel Leitlhof im Südtiroler Hochpustertal möglich, die Hände zu desinfizieren. Die Rezeptionistinnen tragen wie das übrige Servicepersonal Mund- und Nasenschutzmaske. „Wir haben alle erdenklichen Hygienemaßnahmen laut den Vorschriften der Weltgesundheitsorganisation sowie der Südtiroler Behörden umgesetzt“, sagt Hotelmanager Dietmar Walder bei der Begrüßung. „Denn wir möchten, dass die Gäste hier unbeschwert und sicher Urlaub machen können.“
Das klingt vertrauenerweckend. Und viele Hygienemaßnahmen kennt man ja eh von Zuhause. Spätestens beim Betreten des Hotelzimmers stellt sich dann auch sowieso das Urlaubsfeeling ein. Das Alpin-Zimmer ist auf das Wesentliche reduziert und doch mit allem Komfort ausgestattet. Das für Wände, Möbel und Verkleidungen verwendete Zirbenholz wurde gehobelt, sodass die Poren offen bleiben und der Duft jahrelang anhält. Die weichen Möbelstoffe schaffen Gemütlichkeit, der Lehmputz an den Wänden vermittelt ein erholsames Raumklima, dezent verbauter Naturstein setzt architektonische Akzente. Dazu: eine Ofenbank zum Ausruhen, eine Couch, um Gedanken fliegen zu lassen. Und auf dem Zimmerbalkon zwei breite Liegestühle, von denen der Blick direkt auf den mächtigen Haunold schweift: Es fühlt sich an, als sei ich dem Alltag direkt auf eine Hütte hoch oben in den Bergen entflohen.
Energie-autark dank Holz-Heizkraftwerk
Als die einheimische Familie Mühlmann den Leitlhof 1997 übernahm, hatte sie von Beginn an eines im Sinn: Urlaub und Nachhaltigkeit dauerhaft und sinnvoll zu verbinden. Bis die Idee Wirklichkeit wurde, dauerte es allerdings eine Zeit lang – wie bei allen guten Dingen, die eben brauchen, um zu reifen. Heute spürt der Gast die Philosophie der Nachhaltigkeit an allen Ecken im Hotel.
Denn vor rund zehn Jahren beschlossen die Inhaber: Der Leitlhof soll energieautark werden. Im Jahr 2012 bauten sie ein eigenes Holz-Heizkraftwerk, was für sie doppelt Sinn machte. Zum einen weil die Mühlmanns viele Hektar Wald besitzen, den Rohstoff also günstig beziehen. Zum anderen, weil sie damit ihrem Ziel einen großen Schritt näher kamen. Mit dem Holzvergaser-Kraftwerk gelang es, den Leitlhof auf vielen Ebenen klimaneutral zu machen. Dank Thermischer Energie und Ökostrom konnte der CO2-Ausstoß pro Gast und Nacht massiv verringert werden, von 85,5 kg auf knapp 10,1 kg. Mehr noch: Die Anlage produziert sogar mehr Energie als das Hotel benötigt und speist Strom ins regionale Energienetz ein. Den Rest des CO2-Ausstosses setzt Familie Mühlmann mit einem finanziellen Beitrag auf Null – und zwar durch Unterstützung eines Umweltschutzprojektes, einer Biogasanlage, in Indien. Die Hotelgäste hinterlassen damit einen neutralen Klima-Fußabdruck.

Die E-Bikes des Leitlhofs werden mit Strom aus dem eigenen Holz-Heizkraftwerk aufgeladen; Foto: schönessüdtirol.de/Heiner Sieger
„Wir sind nach meinem Wissen derzeit noch das einzige Energie-positive Hotel in Europa“, sagt Dietmar Walder. Seit 2019 ist der Leitlhof GSTC-zertifiziert und entspricht damit den strengen Standards des Global Sustainable Tourism Council (GSTC) und ist eines der wenigen, international anerkannten, nachhaltigen Hotels weltweit. Nicht nur das: Der Leitlhof war auch das erste Hotel in Italien mit einer Ladestation für Elektro-Autos, wie Walder stolz erzählt. Der grüne Strom dafür kommt ebenso aus dem eigenen Kraftwerk wie die Ladungen der E-Bikes, die das Hotel seinen Gästen kostenlos für Touren durch die heimische Natur zur Verfügung stellt.
Verpflegung vom eigenen Bauernhof
Für die Verpflegung seiner Gäste nutzt der Leitlhof seinen eigenen Bauernhof, den Mühlhof: Dort wird Gemüse angepflanzt und hier haben auch 24 Angusrinder ihr Zuhause, die für ihre besonders zarte Fleischqualität berühmt sind. Für die Sommerfrische verbleiben die Angusrinder auf einem besonders schönen Fleckchen im Hochpustertal: der Klammbach Alm. Anfang Juni, manchmal auch schon etwas früher, beziehen sie ihr ruhiges Sommerquartier. Hier bleiben sie bis Ende September, bevor sie in den Mühlhof zurückkehren.
Käse, Brot, Butter, Honig, Eier: Wo immer möglich, kommen zu den Mahlzeiten regionale Köstlichkeiten auf den Teller „Im Frühjahr entscheiden wir, welches Gemüse im Sommer am Mühlhof wachsen soll: Von seltenen Sorten, wie dem dreifarbigen Rhabarber oder der Bergartischocke bis zum klassischen Salat, der Zucchini und den Kartoffeln vom eigenen Acker ist alles dabei“, erzählt Dietmar Walder bei einem Rundgang. Auf dem Speiseplan soll nur stehen, was gerade reif ist. Dazu wachsen im Kräutergarten all jene Kräuter heran, die den Gerichten den besonderen Pfiff verleihen. Das sind übrigens nicht nur Rosmarin, Basilikum oder Thymian: Auch Brennessel oder Bachkresse wird genutzt, was vielerorts als Unkraut gilt.

Markus Auer, Chefkoch des Leitlhofs setzt heimische Produkte wie den Holunder am liebsten in seiner Küche ein; Foto: Mike Rabensteiner
Küchenchef im Leitlhof ist seit dem Sommer 2019 Markus Auer. Der gebürtige Südtiroler pflegt eine authentische, bodenständige Küche: „Ich wünsche mir, dass die Gäste schmecken, wie viel Liebe und Arbeit hinter den Gerichten steckt“, lächelt er bescheiden. Dabei ist sein Kochstil eine gelungene Mischung aus Alpinem und Mediterranem. „Ich versuche, die Region und ihre Produkte so gut wie möglich in meine Gerichte einzubauen.“ Und seine Lieferanten wählt er persönlich aus: Butter vom Veiderhof, Käse vom Lechnerhof und der Sennerei Drei Zinnen, Honig von der Familie Joas, Eier von Pustertaler Bauernhöfen, Speck von Südtiroler Bauern, das knusprige Brot von den Bäckereien Walder und Happacher in Toblach und Sexten.
Intensiver Gschmack dank Latschenbutter
Aber wie gelingt es Markus Auer, die Natur in die Gerichte einzubauen? „Ich arbeite beispielsweise gerne mit Latschenbutter. Sie hat einen intensiven Geschmack und lässt sich hervorragend für Infusionen verwenden. Ich verwende die Butter auch für mein cremiges Risotto. Es wird mit Latschenbutter aufmontiert und mit Äpfeln verfeinert“ , nennt er ein Beispiel. Inspirationen für neue Ideen holt sich der junge Koch – na klar – aus der Natur: „Ich bin selbst viel draußen und am Berg unterwegs. Und dann gibt es noch den Kräutergarten im Hotel. Da fällt mir auch immer wieder Neues ein.“

Heimische Küche im Naturhotel Leitlhof: Soufflé vom Sextner Almkäse mit Brennessel-Spinatcreme; Foto: schönessüdtirol.de/Heiner Sieger
Auf den Teller kommen dann Köstlichkeiten wie eine Terlaner Weißweinschaumsüppchen mit Zimtbrotcroutons, ein Soufflé vom Sextner Almkäse mit Brennessel-Spinatcreme, Petersilienbandnudeln mit Räucherlachs und rotem Pfeffer, Streifenbarschfilet vom Grill mit Paprikaratatouille und gebackenen Zucchini, wahlweise Tagliata vom Eichelschwein mit Estragonjus, Sautée von Pastinake und Steinpilze und als süße Verführung ein Topfen-Wadlfrüchte Strudel mit Zimtblüten Eis.
Waldspaziergang mit Zinnen-Blick
Die wunderschöne Landschaft, die vielfältige Natur und das zünftige Innichen kann ich direkt vom Hotel aus erkunden, das eigene Auto wird nicht bis zur Abreise nicht mehr bewegt. Wer einen weiter entfernten Ausflug unternehmen möchte, den bringt und holt das kostenlose Hoteltaxi. Für einen ersten bleiben Eindruck von der Schönheit der Region starte ich direkt vom Hotel aus. Vom Leitlhof aus führt mich ein bequemer Spazierweg über den Innicherberg bis zum Stauderhof und zum Mehlhof. Die Strecke ist ideal für eine kleine Nachmittagswanderung. Unterwegs tauchen dann auch im Blickfeld immer wieder die berühmten Drei Zinnen auf, die südwestlich hinter dem Haunold aus dem Boden wachsen.

MIt dem E-Bike geht es geschmeidig auch zu höhere gelegenen Zielen; Foto: schönessüdtirol.de/Heiner Sieger
Da ich es gerne etwas sportlicher mag, reserviere ich mir an der Rezeption eines der knallroten E-Mountain-Bikes der Marke Cube. Strecken zum Austoben gibt es reichlich: Entweder auf etwas flacheren Strecken quer durchs Tal nach Sexten oder gar bis Lienz oder in die andere Richtung nach Bruneck gibt der Akku kilometermäßig locker her. Ich fahre aber lieber mitten rein in die Natur – zum Toblacher See und über kernige Waldwege zum – in der Hochsaison von Autos überlaufenen – Pragser Wildsee, einem der beliebtesten Fotomotive Südtirols.

Die Innicher nennen den Haunold auch den „schlafenden Riesen“, Foto: schönessüdtirol.de/Heiner Sieger
Und dann gibt es auch noch den Funbob und den Erlebnispark. Mit dem Sessellift schaukle ich über Almen und grasende Rindviecher hinweg, hinauf zur gemütlichen Riese Haunold-Hütte auf 1500 Metern, das wuchtige und immer näher rückende Massiv stets im Blick. Bei Betreten und Verlassen des Lifts muss eine Maske getragen werden.
Tummelplatz für Zwerge im Reich des Riesen
Blühende Wiesen und satte Grasmatten bilden oben eine abwechslungsreiche Spielwiese für Klein und Groß. Zahlreiche Attraktionen bieten einen vielfältigen Zeitvertreib: Das Zwergendorf, der Hochseilgarten „Zwergenparcours“, die Barfuß-Seen und eine Tubing-Bahn. Gestärkt mit einer Südtiroler Marende oder einer äußerst üppigen Portion Schnitzel mit Pommes in der Hütte, lockt dann der ultimative Höhepunkt: die längste Sommerrodelbahn Südtirols. Mit einem Tempo von bis zu 40 Stundenkilometern saust der zuvor sorgfältig desinfizierte Bob auf einer kurvigen Strecke von knapp zwei Kilometern zu Tal, wobei jeder das Tempo je nach gewünschter Adrenalin-Ausschüttung selber bestimmen kann. Ein großartiger Spaß, gerade für das Kind im Mann oder der Frau.
Lohnenswert ist auch ein Besuch in Innichen: Besonders sehenswert sind das Stift Innichen mit Stiftskirche und Museum, das Franziskanerkloster sowie das Dolomythos-Museum, das die Geschichte des laut Bergsteigerlegende Reinhold Messner schönsten Gebirges der Welt erzählt – den Dolomiten. Im Hutmacherhaus zum Beispiel liegt unter anderem das Geschäft von Familie Zacher: Seit Generationen schon fertigen sie nach alter Tradition Haunold-Walkfilz aus Schaf-Schurwolle. Daraus entstehen Filzpantoffeln, Sitzauflagen und Wohnaccessoires.
Im Ortszentrum treffen im Cafè Mitterhofer Kunst, Alltag und unterschiedliche Kulturen zusammen. Das Flair des Grenzortes und der für Südtirol so typische Mix aus Alpinem und Mediterranem spüre ich hier hautnah bei einem Cappuccino und einem Aperol Spritz zwischen Einheimischen und Touristen hautnah. Ein weiteres Highlight liegt ein wenig entfernt: Zwischen Innichen und Sexten dämmert die Ruine des Wildbads zu Innichen vor sich hin. Fünf Heilquellen entspringen hier. Das alte Sanatorium wurde einst zum Grand Hotel umgebaut, seit 1939 ist es aber still im Haus. Obwohl – oder vielleicht gerade weil – der Zahn der Zeit hier deutliche Spuren hinterlassen hat, bleibt das Wildbad zu Innichen ein spannendes Ausflugsziel inmitten ansonsten unberührter Natur.
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