
Auf dem Lagazuoi: Immer wieder kann man steinerne Zeugen des Ersten Weltkriegs besichtigen. Foto: Thomas Riedinger
Es waren schreckliche Ereignisse, die sich an der Dolomitenfront im Ersten Weltkrieg abspielten. 100 Jahre nach Friedensschluss erinnern Gedenkstätten und Museen an die Kämpfe zwischen Venetien (Italien) und Südtirol, damals noch unter der Regie der Habsburger (Österreich). Südtirols Bergsteiger- und Schauspieler-Legende Luis Trenker hatte die Auseinandersetzungen und die Sprengung eines ganzen Gipfels am Col die Lana in seinem Film „Berg in Flammen“ verarbeitet.
Michael Call weiß von diesen Kämpfen an einer eisigen Front zu berichten. Erzählt hat sie ihm sein Vater Franz, der sich mit der Geschichte der Menschen zwischen den Berggipfeln bestens auskennt – wie viele Südtiroler. Und so wird die Tour, die der erfahrene Skifahrer mit Gästen seines gleichnamigen Hotels anführt, zugleich zu einer Reise in die Vergangenheit.
„Gio scüstico della Grande Guerra“ nennen die Einheimischen die Skitour auf den Spuren der österreichischen Kaiserjäger und italienischen Alpini-Truppen. Sie führt auf rund 80 Kilometern vorbei an den schönsten Gipfeln der Dolomiten: Sellastock, Marmolada, Civetta, Pelmo, Cinque Torri, Tofana, Lagazuoi, Conturines und Sassongher. Die Spuren dieses Stellungskriegs kann man abseits der Pisten und Aufstiegsanlagen immer noch sehen: Laufgräben, Wehrgänge, Stollen, Schützengräben und Forts. Immer im Blick haben die Skifahrer den Col di Lana, den einstigen „Blutberg“, wie es in den Geschichtsbüchern heißt.
Reichlich Gelegenheit, um Spezialitäten der Region zu genießen
„Die Soldaten beider Lager saßen sich praktisch von Berg zu Berg gegenüber“, erzählt Michael Call. Die meisten Menschen starben nicht im Kugelhagel, sondern an den Folgen der eisigen Kälte in den frostigen Nächten. Auf der Tour werden die Wintersportler hingegen von der Sonne begleitet, zudem gibt es am Rand der Pisten reichlich Gelegenheit, sich aufzuwärmen und die Spezialitäten dieser Region zu genießen.
So manche Gipfelbahn und die Erschließung etlicher Berge verdanken die Skifahrer in den Dolomiten diesem Stellungskrieg, wie es in der Tourenanleitung von „Dolomiti Superski“ heißt. Der weltweit größte Skiverbund umfasst zwölf Skigebiete und mehr als 1 200 Kilometer Pisten. 31 davon legt man auf der Gebirgsjägertour zurück – ohne auch nur eine Piste doppelt zu befahren.
Michael Call ist mit seiner Gruppe in Corvara (Alta Badia) in die Tour eingestiegen. Über den Passo Campolongo geht es nach Arabba, und über Porta Vescovo erreicht die Gruppe nach einer langen Abfahrt Malga Ciapela. Von dort lohnt sich ein Abstecher auf den höchsten Gipfel südlich des Brenners, die 3 342 Meter hohe Marmolada. Auch auf der „Königin der Dolomiten“ ist der Weltkrieg präsent, ausgestellt werden an der Mittelstation Sprenggeräte, Bomben und Waffen sowie Uniformen.
Spektakulär: die enge Schlucht Malga Ciapela
Den spektakulärsten Teil dieser Skitour kündigt der Tourenführer in Malga Ciapela an: Von dort geht es auf einem schmalen Skiweg nach Sottoguda – vorbei an von Eis überzogenen Felsen einer Schlucht. Bei gutem Wetter hängen Eiskletterer an den steilen Wänden. Mit dem Skibus erreicht man schließlich Alleghe und das Skigebiet am Fuß der Civetta. Für Bergsteiger Reinhold Messner ist dieser 3 220 Meter hohe Gipfel der beeindruckendste der Dolomiten – die unter der Civetta liegenden Pisten lassen die Skifahrer ins Schwärmen kommen.
Mit einem Skibus und nach weiteren Abfahrten erreicht Michael Call mit seinem Team den Passo Falzarego und den Lagazuoi. Der Berg war einst hart umkämpft, wie man an den verblieben Spuren erkennen kann: Scharten in den Felswänden, Stacheldrahtverhau und Totenkreuze auf den Felsplatten. Rund acht Kilometer lang ist die folgende Armentarola-Abfahrt auf einer der schönsten Pisten der Dolomiten. Mit dem Pferdeschlitten lassen sich die Skifahrer danach nach St. Kassian ziehen und erreichen nach wenigen Schwüngen im Schnee wieder den Ausgangspunkt Corvara.
Viele Dörfer dieser Region waren vor rund 100 Jahren Ausgangspunkte wichtiger Materialseilbahnen, die den Nachschub an die Fronten brachten. Auch die umliegenden Täler waren von Bedeutung, das Pustertal mit seiner strategisch wichtigen Bahnlinie beispielsweise. Im dortigen Skigebiet am Kronplatz zeugt das Mountain Museum Corones von Reinhold Messner von den Taten weiterer Helden, den Bergsteigern. Gerade erst wurde das Skigebiet am Plan de Corones, wie die Ladiner ihren Gipfel nennen, zum „Besten Skigebiet der Alpen“ gekürt.
An der Studie „Best Ski Resort“ haben sich mehr als 45 000 Skifahrer und Snowborader beteiligt. Vom Kronplatzgipfel (2 275 Meter) führen Pisten aller Kategorien nach Bruneck, Olang und St. Vigil/Enneberg, wohin Michael Call am Abend eines erlebnisreichen Tages mit seiner Gruppe zurückkehrt. Allzu viele Menschen vor 100 Jahren war ein solcher Tagesabschluss nicht vergönnt. Auch deshalb halten die Einheimischen die Erinnerung an ihre Vorfahren und einen verheerenden Krieg wach. Südtiroler, sprich Italiener, Gäste aus Österreich, der Schweiz und Deutschland haben auf dieser Tour auf einst kriegerischen Spuren Freundschaften geschlossen.
Infos
Dolomiti Superski: 1 220 Pistenkilometer, 450 Aufstiegsanlagen, zwölf Skigebiete, größtes Ski-Karussell der Welt.
Skigebiet Kronplatz: 119 Pistenkilometer, 32 Aufstiegsanlagen, 40 Einkehrmöglichkeiten, Anschluss zu den Skitouren.
Saison: Anfang Dezember bis Anfang/Mitte April 2019.
Gebirgsjägertour: Gesamtlänge: 82,50 Kilometer, Pisten: 31 Kilometer, Dauer der Rundfahrt: sieben bis acht Stunden.
Infos: Dolomiti Superski, Telefon (00 39) 04 71 79 53 97; Skigebiet Kronplatz, Telefon (00 39) 0474 555 447. www.dolomitisuperski.com; www.kronplatz.com; www.almhof-call.com
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