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Die Dolomitenladiner

Tobia Moroder, Die Dolomitenladiner - Einblick in eine genaz besondere Volksgruppe; Foto: Barbara Tavella

Tobia Moroder: Die Dolomitenladiner – Einblick in eine ganz besondere Volksgruppe; Foto: Barbara Tavella

Was will uns der Ladiner sagen? Das ist, wenn er denn Ladinisch spricht, in der Regel schwer zu verstehen. Zum Glück gibt es für Interessierte jetzt ein kleines, aber inhaltsstarkes Büchlein über diese ganze besondere Volksgruppe, die rund um das Unesco-Weltkulturerbe Dolomiten ihre Heimat hat. Und darin erzählen – auf deutsch und verständlich wie unterhaltsam – waschechte Ladiner, das wichtigste über Kultur, Tradition und Leben der „Dolomitenladiner“ sowie bekannte Persönlichkeiten wie Luis Trenker, Giorgio Moroder oder Gilbert Prousch von Gilbert & George. Der Herausgeber und Autor zahlreicher Beiträge, Tobia Moroder, muss es auch wissen: Schließlich ist er Bürgermeister von St. Ulrich, dem wichtigsten Ort in Gherdëina, zu deutsch Gröden sowie Mitarbeiter des Museum Ladin Ćiastel de Tor, des Istitut Ladin Micurà de Rü und anderer ladinischer Institutionen.

Zusammen mit dem Ostschweizerischen und dem Friaulischen bildet das Ladinische die rätoromanische Sprachgruppe. Die Dolomitenladiner gruppieren sich dabei hauptsächlich in fünf Tälern rund um das gewaltige Sellamassiv: Gröden (Gherdëina), Gadertal (Val Badia), Fassatal (Fascia), Buchenstein (Fodom) und Cortina d‘Ampezzo (Anpezo). Hier stellen sie die Mehrheit der Bevölkerung. Doch während die Ladiner im Habsburger Kaiserreich und im heutigen Südtirol eine weitgehend anerkannte Sprachgruppe waren und sind, wehren sich die Italiener gegen eine Autonomie der Ladiner. Eine Volksbefragung im Jahr 2007 erzielte eine überwältigende Mehrheit unter den Ladinern im Fassatal, im Ampezzo und in Buchenstein für einen Anschluss an das deutschsprachige Südtirol – ein Ergebnis steht jedoch bis heute aus.

Neben den sprachlichen Unterschieden und Konflikten verbindet die Ladiner aber vor allem mit den Deutschtirolern in Südtirol und den Welschtirolern in Trentino eine gemeinsame Kultur und gemeinsame Traditionen. Kleidung, Architektur und Küche ähneln sich aufgrund der langen gemeinsamen Geschichte und des gleichen Lebensstils sehr. Tirolerhüte, typische Tiroler Paarhöfe, Speck, Knödeln, Nockerl und Tiroler Schützenvereine findet man daher im gesamten Dolomitengebiet und noch über seine Grenzen hinaus.

Obwohl die Küche der Dolomiten traditionell relativ einfach gehalten ist, finden sich hier Knödelgerichte, Speck, Nockerl, Nudel- und Maisgerichte innerhalb einer Region. Eine Konstellation, die sich besonders in den Haubenrestaurants Südtirols gut auskosten lässt und die Tobia Moroder anschaulich beschreibt. Ebenso wie das beachtliche Kunsthandwerk wie die Filigrankunst aus Cortina d’Ampezzo, die „Pitores“ – die Wandermaler – aus dem Fassatal, die Truhen aus dem Gadertal und die Holzschnitzereien aus dem Grödnertal. Abgerundet wird das Buch mit den wichtigsten Adressen ladinischer Museen und einem kleinen Sprachführer. Damit man die Ladiner beim nächsten aufeinandertreffen gleich auf Anhieb besser versteht.

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